Travelling Tim

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June 03, 2005

Darjeeling, Queen of Hill Stations

Back into India, and the cloying summer heat and humidity of Kolkata made me run for the hills: in this case, Darjeeling, a popular retreat for the inhabitants of West Bengal. Situated in the lower Himalayas, between the mountain kingdoms of Nepal and Bhutan, its 6000 foot elevation makes the weather very pleasant: the hotel bedrooms don't need ceiling fans, and the beds even have blankets on them!

The town was very full, and it took me a while to find somewhere to stay: most unusual for the traveller in India. I eventually got a nice room at the Fairmont Hotel situated at the quiet end of the Mall, and with a lovely view from my bedroom window.

Although I am normally a very frugal traveller, managing on a budget that would be unthinkable in Europe or the US, there comes a time, every now and then, to splash out a little. My weakness is a nice breakfast, and at Glenarys in Darjeeling, you can get one of the best in India. Here I am, about to enjoy a perfectly cooked tomato and onion omelette, with thick brown toast, fresh butter, local honey, and a freshly brewed pot of coffee. The price for all this ? - about 1.20 GBP, or 2.00 USD.

Darjeeling has many pleasant walks, along the levels that have been cut into the hillsides. One of the highest is the walk around Observatory Hill, that leads off the end of the Chowrasta, at the norhtern end of the Mall. In the winter and spring time, there are fine views of distant snow capped mountains; at this time of year, though, the clouds and haze limit just how far you can see.

To the west is an old British cemetery, and I went to visit the old man who looks after the graves, and to wander around the different plots, reading the faded inscriptions, and wondering about these people who died so far from home, never to return there. The graves are well looked after, if in a rather individual manner. Many flowers are growing randomly about, and vegetables are dotted between the tombs. This style mat not appeal to the the regimented ex-rulers of the Raj, but to me, it was most appealing, and a pleasant place to sit and think.

Just below Observatory Hill are the fine Lloyds Botanical Gardens, built on what must be one of the steepest plots anywhere. You have to be fit to enjoy the flowers here! There are many trees to provide a welcome shade, plus ponds, rock gardens, an orchid house, and an interesting herb garden that features a large variety of the local medicinal plants.

One reason many come to Darjeeling is to see and travel in the world-famous Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, now a World Heritage Site. This amazing railway with its narrow gauge steam locomotives was built near the end of the 19th century, and still provides and important transport service over its 82km length. With gradients of up to 1 in 19, and a maximum height at Ghoom of over 7400 feet, this astonishing railway threads itself in and out of the traffic as it makes the long haul from the plains.

Although not counting myself as a 'steam buff' or 'railway specialist', I still like to travel on the trains whenever possible; especially so when steam is involved with its magical smell of hot oil and smoke, and the lovely sounds the engines make when starting or going along the rickety track.

It was, perhaps, not such a pity that the train from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling was fully booked when I arrived, as the 8 hour trip can be taxing to even the most hardened enthusiast, but luckily space was available a few days later on the round trip excursion train from Darjeeling to Ghoom and back. This trip is always steam-hauled, and stops for photos at the famous Batasi Loop, where the track makes a complete loop and then crosses itself over a bridge, an ingenious way to gain height that makes use of a natural mountain rock formation, conveniently sited.

Posted by travellingtim at June 3, 2005 09:28 PM

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